hanoi, vietnam TRAVEL GUIDE - Food, photography, and more.
ABOUT US
I have lived in Vietnam for almost 20 years, working as a photographer for the New York Times. My wife, Quynh Anh, is a director and former travel and food TV host with a vast knowledge of Vietnam and its culture and cuisine. As a local, she knows all the best spots. We often get asked for recommendations on where to go and what to eat by friends and friends of friends, and friends of those friends, so we created this list to help people make the most of their trip to Vietnam. On my YouTube channel we have several episodes featuring the following locations, check them out below.
PHOTOGRAPHY + WANDERING
A fisherman along West Lake in Hanoi, Vietnam. Photo by Justin Mott for The New York Times. Prints available for purchase here.
Private Photography Workshop With Me - I provide personalized photography workshops in Hanoi, Vietnam for individuals, families, and small groups upon request, lasting 1-7 days. You can spend a day with me exploring Hanoi, discovering photography tips, and visiting my favorite locations. Prices start at $875 for a one-day, one-person workshop. More details here.
Long Bien Bridge - I just love it there, my suggestion is to walk over the bridge at sunrise or sunset to capture the best light. Walk all the way across, it’s not too far, or just before the end take the steps down and go under the bridge and walk back in the same direction as traffic. Hopefully, you’ll get lucky to see the train pass through the middle of this historical bridge built by the French and bombed by the Americans.
Dong Xuan Market - Grab a local coffee anywhere near the market and then wander through the labyrinth of local garment stalls and household goods for sale. It’s not wonderful for shopping but for a glimpse into how the locals live and purely for visuals it’s an incredible place.
Address - No.15, Cau Dong Street, Dong Xuan Ward, Hoan Kiem District
Hoan Kiem Lake - A must-visit, best to go on the weekends because the roads are closed off and best to go at sunrise because the activities are plentiful and the light busting through the trees is stunning.
Walk Around West Lake - If you like to walk, this is one of the rare places in Hanoi where you can sort of walk peacefully with a decent amount of sidewalk space, at least compared to the rest of the city. It’s a very long walk, 15km around the lake, but you can stop anytime and call a Grab to pick you up. You’ll find plenty of coffee shops, restaurants, and temples along the way.
Very Dep Photography Studio - Half-day and full-day shoots available for couples, individuals, and families in the studio or out and about at some curated Hanoi locations. This is a bit of a self-promotion as I’m the founder of this studio but my team has all been trained by personally by me and they know all my favorite locations.
COFFEE
Cafe Pho Co egg coffee with a view overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake. Photo by Justin Mott
Pho Co Coffee - Egg Coffee in Hanoi is legendary and this location is fun to walk down the little alleyway into a hidden world. Climb the spiral staircase to the top floor with a view of Hoan Kiem Lake.
Address - 11 P. Hàng Gai, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm
Cong Cafe - In 2007 I called their original location Triệu Việt Vương Street my office and since then, they have now located all over the city so whenever you crave a coffee Google your closest one. Order their famous coconut coffee.to cool down, it’s like a coffee/coconut milkshake of sorts. Hipster cafe with propaganda war-era decor.
Address
Maison Marou - The coffee is okay but you go there for the locally sourced and internationally renowned chocolate. I first met the founders while shooting a story for the New York Times when they are first getting started and since then they’ve exploded into fame. Delicious dark chocolate sourced from all over Vietnam, makes great gifts for your friends and family who didn’t make the trip and their packaging on it’s own is award-worthy. You can find their chocolate in numerous outlets and their cafes are all over as well.
Address for their Hanoi flagship cafe - 91A Tho Nhuom Tran Hung Dao Ward, Hoan Kiem District Ha Noi City.
Industrial Room - This isn’t a Hanoi must but if you’re into industrial design this furniture shop/cafe has some incredible lamps, tables, stools and delicious coffee as well. I don’t think they can deliver internationally but it’s still work a look.
Address - 149 P. Giảng Võ, Giảng Võ, Ba Đình,
FOOD ( by Quynh Anh Mott)
Chả cá Thăng Long - 6B Đường Thành: Grilled fish and noodles. This place has been serving this dish for many generations. It is known as the dish of the king in the past. This is a must when you visit Hanoi. Please book in advance, best to enjoy this as dinner with local beers. My family has been eating here forever. It is so good that you will feel like you are in a different world when taking a bite, and you will dream of it :).
Phở gà - Huyền Hương 20 Bảo Khánh: Chicken "phở". This is the original "phở". You can try beef "phở" if you want. I love this place, of course, for the quality of the chicken, but also for the location. You can have a bowl of phở, then walk around Hoan Kiem Lake for local coffee. There is no better feeling than this :).
Bánh mì Nguyên Sinh - Nguyên Sinh Baguette: OMG! It is a big loss if you are in Hanoi and do not get to eat a banh mi. YOU HAVE TO TRY IT!!!. You will feel the whole universe in one bite. No words can describe this. You just have to come and eat a banh mi yourself. OMG! There are different locations, please google search for the ones that are closest to you.
Chả rươi - Ô Quan Chưởng - Sandworm omelette in O Quan Chuong street. This is a DELICACY of Hanoi. It is a little adventurous :) and worth it. It is a mix of sandworm, minced pork, and mandarin peels. It is magical! You have to trust me :).
Chè bà Thìn - số 1 Bát Đàn: This is THE dessert for all Vietnamese people. We have different versions of chè in Hanoi, HCMC, or Danang, Hue. It is a great dessert year-round. You can enjoy it with ice in summer and hot chè in winter. There is no better feeling than eating a bowl of hot chè in winter on the sidewalk and watching people.
Bánh xoài ở Đinh Liệt - Mango cake on Dinh Liet Street: Its name is "mango cake" but no mango is involved, so cute right :). The outside is made from flour, and the inside is a beautiful mix of black sesame and fresh shredded coconut. Once you have a bite, then you will know what I am talking about. It is a delightful feeling in your mouth.
LODGING
Capella Hotel - Hanoi, Vietnam
Capella Hanoi - A modern quirky and luxurious hotel designed by American architect Bill Bensley. Great location, funky design and decor, and if you one to document your life on social media you’ll have plenty of opportunities, but even if that’s not your thing it’s still fun to look at.
Address - 11 P. Lê Phụng Hiểu
Metropole - Modern meets classic, for several decades this was the go-to luxury hotel in Hanoi for visitors. I recommend staying in the old wing and after a full day of on foot exploring the city enjoy their Chaplin dessert and cocktail by the poolside.
Address - 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem
Apricot - Impressive Vietnamese art collection and even more impressive location being right across the street from Hoan Kiem Lake.
Address - 136 P. Hàng Trống, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
SHOPPING
Home and gallery space for shopping prints by Justin Mott. Visit by appointment only.
Justin Mott Photography - I’m a bit biased here because I am Justin Mott but if you find yourself in the market for some art for your walls or a gift for a friend I sell prints of my work online and they can be shipped to your doorstep if you live in the USA or Canada. If you want to come shop my collection in person we offer viewings by appointment only, contact me at justin@justinmott.com. I also over private photography workshops by special request.
Address - Packexim Building 1 Tower B. Ngõ 15 An Dương Vương, Phú Thượng, Tây Hồ, Hà Nộ.i
Workroom Four - An art design studio and gallery run by long-term expatriate Claire Driscol. Claire has been dialed into the art scene here for 2 decades and her gallery also sells unique Vietnam souvenirs designed by her that you won’t find anywhere else.
Address - 31 Ng. 67 Đ. Tô Ngọc Vân, Quảng An, Tây Hồ, Hà Nội
Kilomet 109 - A fashion brand that has been featured in the NY Times and globally by designer Thao Vu. Locally sourced textiles using indigo and yam dying techniques combine the traditional and modern with offerings for both women and men.
Address - 64 Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi
SIDE TRIPS
Bill Bensley designed Hôtel de la Coupole - MGallery shot on assignment for the New York Times by Justin Mott.
How To Do Sapa - While most tour companies prefer taking you to the town center, I find it chaotic. Sapa used to be known for its beautiful scenery and genuine authentic appeal, but it's now overrun with tourists. Despite this, it still retains its charm if you just venture out a bit. When friends visit, I book accommodations at Topas Riverside or Topas Eco Lodge to escape the crowds and be surrounded by Sapa's natural beauty. The Topas Eco Lodge is one of my favorite places to stay worldwide, not just in Vietnam. If you still want to explore the town, spend one night at the uniquely designed Hôtel de la Coupole - MGallery and relax by the pool for a special experience. The hotel itself is worth the visit, it's fascinating.
Melia Ba Vi - If you want to get away from Hanoi without going too far or dealing with the crowds in Ha Long Bay or Sapa, consider visiting Melia Ba Vi. It's a rustic mountain retreat inside a national park, much closer to Hanoi than other options.
GENERAL ADVICE
Dong Xuan Market by Justin Mott for The New York Times.
TAXIS - MaiLinh is the most reliable taxi service from the airport, but taxis still try to scam tourists so just agree on prices ahead of time. Typically it’s a meter rate from the airport and a flat rate to the airport and the prices will be posted all over the taxis. I highly recommend using the GRAB app to get around. Download it before your trip, they are the UBER of Asia and very reliable for both bike/car taxis and for food delivery. I like taking the motorbike taxis as I feel it’s a fun way to experience Hanoi. Use GRAB over taxis except for airport transfer leaving the airport, it just eliminates the possibility for scams or confusion over rates and addresses.
SAFETY - Hanoi is one of the safest places I’ve ever been, but like anywhere use common sense and just be aware of your cameras and belongings in touristy areas.
CROSSING THE STREET - If you wait for an opening in traffic you’ll be there all day, so just put your hand up to make drivers aware you are there and stay at the same pace, don’t speed up or stop abruptly as the motorbikes are adjust their speed based on your speed so be consistent. Also, driving the wrong way down a one-way street is common so always look both ways.
TIPPING - Depends on the place really, it’s not a huge part of the culture here but since Americans tip everybody people start to expect it. You’re not going to get tip-shammed like you would in the USA but I’d say if the service was good it can’t hurt to add a little tip but to each his own.
SHOPPING/HAGGLING - If you’re on the street or in a tourist market haggling about the price of something is common but not at your average store. I don’t know, this one is situational so just use your best judgment. For example, if you are buying a coffee at a market then don’t haggle over the price but if you are buying a few souvenirs in that same market the price might be negotiable.
PHOTOGRAPHY - Hanoi is a gem for street photography but I’d say Hanoi can be a little tougher at photographing strangers compared to Saigon. It’s not that’s it difficult or dangerous, people just have a little more of an edge here and are more likely to say no if you ask. My advice is just to be respectful and use good judgment.
If you found this useful please send us some love in the comments section. Also don’t forget to shop my online print store.
